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Beach Gourmet: The Cock ‘n Bull::

There are pubs and there are pubs. The Cock ‘n Bull on Lincoln in Santa Monica is a no-frills, “let’s ‘ave some fun” pub and restaurant that makes no bones about it’s “working class” persona. With the giant mural of the wonderful John Lennon (“there are places I remember…”), the seasoned pool tables, darts, oak paneled walls, the aura of ale and the distinctly “pub grub” menu, The Cock ‘n Bull is more reminiscent of an English Working Men’s Club (these are social clubs usually affiliated to a trade union), rather than a “landed gentry” country establishment.

On my recent visit I sampled the simple life, raised a jar with a friend and enjoyed a plate that left me rather more than satisfied, or as they say in England, stuffed!

The atmosphere was friendly with evident camaraderie and banter traveling to and fro across the bar. With phrases such as “Awright, let’s ‘ave a butchers” (alright, I will have a look) and “Is that your jam-jar?” (is that your car?) bouncing around, one is under no illusion that this really is a bastion of Britishness. The menu is small but robust, with such staples as New Zealand Lamb Chops served with French Fries, or “chips,” and veggies ($8.75), Steak and Kidney Pie, also served with French Fries and veggies ($7.00) and Bangers and Mash (British sausages and mashed potato, served with vegetables ($7.50) being offered at evidently bargain prices.

I ordered the Curried Vegetable Pie with French Fries ($7.00), and I substituted the veggies with baked beans (the English variety that are just so good!) while my friend went for the Bangers and Mash served with peas.

Service is good, with the server attending us quickly and with the kind of demeanor that made us feel just like one of the family, “‘Ello, luv, what can I get you?” was the happy greeting.

Even though it was reasonably busy, with a lot of after-work types buzzing around the bar like flies to honey, our meals arrived after only about 10 minutes or so.

These plates were LARGE! And with a generously sized pie, a fine dollop of beans and enough fries to feed a battalion of the Coldstream Guards I knew that there was no way I could leave here hungry.

The pie was filled to bursting point with broccoli, carrots and peas in a mild but discernable curry sauce, all wrapped in a flaky and moist crust. The fries were, well, simply fries, and the baked beans, a damn fine compliment. Add a drop of Worcestershire sauce, and hey presto, flavor city here we come.

My friend’s Bangers and Mash consisted of two large English sausages, a mountain of mashed potatoes, peas, onions and really good gravy on the side, and he, like I, was stuffed after the event.

The Cock ‘n Bull is a great place to eat, down a pint or two, shoot some pool, throw a few darts or watch one of the many soccer matches that they show on the big screens, but remember, the smoking jacket for gentlemen and evening dress for ladies en route to debutante cotillions may not be entirely apropos.

The Cock ‘n Bull, 2947 Lincoln Boulevard, 310.399.9696

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